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WINE & FOOD | SIMPLE SUPPERS

autumn fare

LOUISA CARTER COOKS UP A SEASONAL MENU, WITH A FRESH, FLAVOURSOME SOUP FOLLOWED
BY AN ELEGANT BUT SIMPLE FISH DISH. ALL RECIPES SERVE 6, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

PARSNIP AND CIDER SOUP OLIVE OIL, ROSEMARY TROUT WITH WALNUTS
I often make a parsnip and cider purée to serve with AND BLACK AND HORSERADISH
roast pork or fish. One day, I accidentally added too PEPPER CHIPS This simple dish also works well with lightly
much stock and ended up with this soup. It’s perfect These chips cook in the smoked salmon fillets (thick fillets will take about 15
for cold autumn days and a good way to use up root oven with no need to minutes to cook). One rainbow trout fillet per person
vegetables; sometimes, I add potatoes and/or sweet parboil or deep fry. should be enough, but sometimes they can be on
potatoes, and even a few chunks of apple to the The rinsing and drying the small side, so you may need an extra half, or
parsnips. Serve plain, or fry a small handful of sage stage (to remove excess even whole, fillet each. Mix the topping a few hours
leaves in butter until the butter browns, then spoon a starch) is not essential, before to save time, then just assemble and cook.
few leaves and a swirl of butter on top. It’s also delicious but I do find it stops the • 6 rainbow trout fillets • 30g curly parsley,
with blue cheese – try crumbling in some Saint Agur,
chips sticking to the leaves and tender stems • 100g walnut halves
or spreading a creamy blue cheese on toast to serve
baking tray. I like to • 2 lemons, finely grated zest and juice • 2tbsp
alongside. It serves 6 as a starter, 4 as a light meal.
leave the skins on, but extra-virgin olive oil • 6tbsp creamed horseradish
• 2tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 25g butter • 1 large you can peel the potatoes To serve Olive oil chips (see recipe left)
brown onion, chopped • 500-600g parsnips if you prefer. Heat the and plain green beans, or green beans tossed
(you want about 375g prepped weight), peeled, oven to 220°C/fan oven with watercress and a sharp vinaigrette
cored if tough and roughly chopped into 1cm-thick 200°C/mark 7. Scrub made with walnut oil and sherry vinegar
slices • 2 fat cloves garlic, peeled and bashed but 1.5kg potatoes and cut 1 Heat the oven to 220°C/fan oven 200°C/mark 7.
left whole • 5 sprigs thyme • 500ml medium-dry
into chips about 2cm Arrange the trout fillets skin-side down on a large
cider (I use Aspall Organic Cyder) • 1–1.2 litres
thick. Rinse in a non-stick baking sheet, or on a baking sheet lined with
chicken or vegetable stock • 75ml double cream
colander under cold baking parchment (you may need two baking sheets).
1 Heat the olive oil and butter in a large, lidded, water then pat dry 2 Finely chop the parsley and the walnuts, then
heavy-based saucepan or flameproof casserole with a tea towel. Tip on mix in a bowl with the lemon zest, olive oil and a
over a medium heat. Add the onion and fry for 10–12 to a very large (or two pinch of flaked sea salt and freshly ground black
minutes until tinged golden-brown, then add the smaller) baking trays so pepper. Alternatively, you can roughly whizz
parsnips, garlic and thyme, and stir for 2–3 minutes. the chips lie in a single everything together in a mini food processor.
2 Pour in the cider and bring to a boil over a high layer. Toss with 115ml 3 Squeeze lemon juice over each piece of fish, then
heat, then add 1 litre of the stock and some salt and spread each with the horseradish. Divide the walnut
olive oil, about 8 sprigs
freshly ground black pepper. Bring back to the boil, topping between each fillet and press gently to cover
of rosemary, a good
then turn heat to low, part cover the saucepan and the fish. Cook for 10 minutes until the fish is cooked
pinch of flaked sea salt
simmer for 40–45 minutes until the parsnips are soft. through and opaque, and the topping golden
and plenty of freshly
3 Pick out any woody thyme stalks, then use
ground black pepper
a stick blender to blend to a smooth consistency,
(I use 35 turns of my
adding more stock (and heating through) if needed.
pepper grinder). Roast
Stir in the cream, check the seasoning and serve.
for 45–50 minutes,
stirring a couple of
times during cooking.

STUART PITKIN

HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK NOVEMBER 2015 211