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132                                                                       ART  TOUR



       HISTORY                              MORE ART TOURS       1

                                            Fine Art Travel
       REVISITED                            Europe’s impressive
                                              With access to
        As Vienna’s Ringstrasse turns       private houses and
        150 this year, Julian Allason       museums, itineraries
        visits the grand museums             include a palace
        and palaces circling its route      on the Grand Canal
                                            in Venice, a majestic
                                             Baroque palazzo
             t has been 150 years since the   in Rome and a visit
             Austrian emperor Josef II       to the Alhambra.
             ordered Vienna’s ramparts       finearttravel.co.uk
             demolished to make way for the   Martin Randall
        I -lined necklace of palaces        Martin Randall offers
             tree
        and museums that is the Ringstrasse.   art history tours that
        In celebration, the capital’s great     delve as far back as
        galleries – and of those there are many   the Dark Ages and
        – have mounted special exhibitions.   span the globe.
          Vienna’s transformation from impe-  See masterpieces
        rial military capital to city of culture    in Munich and
        is evident in the architectural models   cave art in Spain.
        on display at the Wien Museum        martinrandall.com
        (wienmuseum.at). A stroll through the   ACE Cultural
                                             The 2016 itinerary
        pedestrianised city centre will bring
        one to the Ringstrasse’s jewel, the      includes art on
                                             the Côte d’Azur
        Kunsthistorisches Museum (khm.at),   and the seventeenth
        which exhibits treasures acquired by
                                              and eighteenth
        the Habsburg Empire over centuries.   century art and                                                   2
          From here, a magnificent double
                                           architecture of Naples.
        staircase ascends to the Kunstkammer.   aceculturaltours.co.uk
        This museum-within-a-museum pre-
        sents a work from each of the principal
        collections, making it easy to identify areas of interest. Some exhibits are
        notorious: Cellini’s gold salt cellar was recently stolen and recovered. Others   3
        are extraordinary: a seventeenth-century gilt robot galleon ‘sailed’ across
        the royal dinner table to fire a canon; the guest hit by the cannonball
        had to down his glass. As Jasper Sharp, curator of the museum, shows us
        around, he stops to examine Old Masters such as Raphael’s Madonna of
        the Meadow and Bruegel’s Tower of Babel.
          This top-level tour forms part of a four-day ‘Inspired Journey’ arranged by   WAYS AND
        British luxury travel specialist Cazenove + Loyd in collaboration with the Art
        Fund. The itinerary also includes an expedition to Schloss Rohrau (schloss-  MEANS                      4
        rohrau.at), where Haydn’s mother worked as a cook to Count Harrach. The   Julian Allason travelled
        castle houses one of the most significant – and least known – private collec-  as a guest of Cazenove
        tions in Europe, the outcome of accumulations made by generations of counts   + Loyd (020-7384 2332;
        who represented the Empire as ambassadors to Spain, and includes works by   cazloyd.com). A four-day
        artists like Luca Giordano, Vernet and Panini. Now ours to enjoy.  journey to Vienna escorted
          The last stop is at the studio of the award-winning contemporary artist   by Jasper Sharp, curator of
        Peter Kogler (kogler.net). This is a rare opportunity to question a major artist   the Kunsthistorisches, costs
        about work in progress. On this trip most guests stay at the Hotel Imperial   from £1,800 per person    5
        (imperialvienna.com) on the Ringstrasse, originally the palace of the Prince of   based on three nights at
        Württemberg, in which Emperor Franz Josef I’s portrait still dominates the    Hotel Imperial with two         © PRISMA ARCHIVO; HERITAGE IMAGE PARTNERSHIP LTD/ALAMY; KMH–MUSEUMSVERBAND
        ceremonial staircase. This is architecture as high art. But then so is the cognac   sharing, including road
        infused Esterházy torte served opposite at Café Schwarzenberg (cafe-  transfers, private guiding,
        schwarzenberg.at), still riddled with Russian bullets. In Vienna art and history   admissions and some
        are as ubiquitous as coffee and pastries, and just as much part of daily life    meals, but excluding flights.

        1 The interior of Kunsthistorisches Museum. 2 The exterior is crowned with an octagonal dome. 3 The seventeenth-century
        galleon on display at the Kunsthistorisches. 4 Bruegel’s The Tower of Babel, 1563. 5 Raphael’s Madonna of the Meadow, c.1505-6

        NOVEMBER 2015 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
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